MALHAM.

According to Bill Bryson, American travel
writer, wit and honourary Yorkshireman
"Malhamdale is the finest place there is
until I have died and seen heaven
(assuming they let me at least have a
glance), but until that day comes, it will
certainly do."

Malham is one of those haunts you find
yourself returning to time after time and
yet never tire of. I first came here nearly
thirty years ago and have visited it regularly
ever since- especially during the time I lived
in Leeds. The A65 was always the "Road to
Adventure"! And some wonderful friends
shared that route with me back then.

After an incredibly busy week away in Nairobi
I needed some time out, so Helen & I stayed
in a B&B in Malham, North Yorkshire, for a
couple of nights.

Yesterday we climbed up Gordale Scar, walked
up to Malham Tarn and returned via 'Dry
Valley' to Malham Cove. The waterfall at
Gordale was in full flood after the recent
rain and I got thoroughly drenched by the
spray as we climbed the central buttress.
Fortunately the weather was kind and I
dried out on the walk above. Each component
of this walk is so different revealing one
aspect after another to this amazing
landscape; waterfalls, canyons, open
water, limestone paving and fantastic
views. In his pictorial guide 'Walks in
Limestone Country' A. Wainwright
says, "Dry Valley leads to the
dangerous brink of the precipice
above Malham Cove. The quickest way
down (a great time saver) is to fall
over the edge but, instead of doing this,
cross the limestone pavement on the
right to a stile, whence a path winds
down to the Cove."

The scenery around Malham is hard
to describe; its Yorkshire's equivalent to
the Grand Canyon! The white limestone
seemingly stretching for miles seems
unearthly. I have often felt that I could
be on another planet in such an eerie
landscape. (Having recently re-subscribed
to 'Astronomy Now' magazine: isn't it weird
how "artists impressions" of the surface of
Mars always include a Pen-Y-Ghent
lookalike?!) Maybe that's why I love this
countryside - my grandfather loved to come
here too.

It will be a sad day when I can no longer
climb up Gordale Scar.